
Scrag end is the cheapest cut to use: the bones and fat all add to the flavour, and the meat will emerge quite tender at the end of cooking. Ask the butcher to cut the scrag into slices 2.5cm thick. Any really fatty bits can be trimmed away but a certain amount of fat is crucial to the success of the dish.
Serves 5–6

4 tablespoons olive oil
1kg scrag end of neck of lamb, on the bone,
or chops from the neck end, or a mixture of
the two
juice of 11/2 lemons
7–8 sprigs of thyme
a wine glass of water or lamb stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Serve with plenty of good white bread, and perhaps a simple tomato salad.
By Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall